Sprinkler System Installation in Fort Worth & Northeast Tarrant County

A sprinkler system is bought once and lived with for twenty years. Almost everything that makes it good or bad — dry corners, runoff down the drive, a water bill nobody can explain — is decided on paper before anyone picks up a shovel. Sprinkler system installation is work we do across northeast Tarrant County — new systems from the design up, and additions and rebuilds on systems that were never designed properly in the first place.

The design decides everything

Measured pressure and flow, first

Every zone is sized against what your meter and service line can actually deliver, not a guess. Over-zoning is the most common fault we find on existing systems: too many heads on a zone, so none of them get the pressure they need and the whole lawn is watered badly and slowly.

Head-to-head coverage

Sprinklers are designed so each head throws to the next one. Anything less and you get the dry arcs between them that homeowners try to fix forever by running the zone longer — which waters everything else twice to get one spot wet.

Matched precipitation

Every head on a zone has to apply water at the same rate. Mixing head types or nozzle families on one zone guarantees that some areas flood while others stay dry, no matter how the controller is set.

Hydrozoning

Turf, beds, shade and full sun all want different amounts of water. They get separate zones, so beds can run on drip while the lawn runs on rotors, and the shaded north side is not forced onto the same schedule as the south-facing front.

Designed for the shape of your lot

Narrow strips, parkways, slopes and anything bordered by concrete need heads chosen for that geometry — and a slope needs cycle-and-soak scheduling built in from day one, because clay will not take the water as fast as a rotor delivers it.

What Texas requires

Irrigation work here is regulated, and that is a good thing for the person paying for it. A system tied to a public water supply has to be installed by a licensed irrigator, and the rules exist because a badly built system can pull untreated water back into the drinking supply.

• A licensed irrigator. All Pro Sprinkler holds Texas Irrigator License LI#0030401. Ask any contractor for their number before they touch your water service.
• A permit. Most cities in this area require a permit for a new system tied to the city supply. We handle it.
• Backflow prevention. A backflow assembly at the connection, installed correctly and tested by a licensed tester.
• A rain, freeze or moisture shut-off device. Required, and genuinely useful — it is what stops the system running through a February freeze or a thunderstorm.
• An irrigation plan. Drawn to scale and sealed, showing zones, flows, head and valve locations, the backflow assembly, the controller and sensors, and the design pressure. You get a copy.
• A walk-through and a maintenance checklist. Before we leave, we show you the controller, the valves, the shut-off and the sensor, and you get it in writing.

What goes in the ground

• Rotors for open turf, where their slower application rate suits clay and their throw covers large areas on fewer zones.
• Spray heads and rotary nozzles for smaller or shaped areas; rotary nozzles apply water slowly enough to cut runoff on slopes and tight clay.
• Drip and bubblers in beds and around trees, where overhead spray is wasted on mulch and foliage.
• Valves in accessible boxes — grouped, boxed and recorded, so the next service call is not a metal-detector hunt. Buried unboxed manifolds are the single most expensive legacy of a cheap install.
• Pressure regulation where the supply runs high, because misting heads waste water and wear out early.
• A controller you can actually use, with smart or weather-based control if you want it — and set up properly before we go, not left on the factory schedule.

New construction, retrofits and additions

New build or new landscaping is the easiest time to do this — open ground, no turf to lift, and the chance to get sleeves under drives and walks before they are poured. We also do a lot of work on existing properties: adding zones for a new bed or a pool surround, splitting a zone that was over-loaded from the start, converting spray beds to drip, replacing a failing controller, or rebuilding a system that was installed without boxes or a plan.

If you have an existing system that mostly works, say so — often the honest answer is a repair and a redesign of two zones rather than a new system. We will tell you which one you are looking at. See sprinkler repair for that side of the work.

While we are already digging

Trenching is the expensive part of any yard work, and it is worth thinking about everything that has to go underground at once. We also install yard drainage and low-voltage landscape lighting, and doing them alongside an irrigation install means one set of trenches, one contractor responsible for what is down there, and a yard that only gets opened up once.

How a sprinkler system installation works

1. Site visit. Measure the property, check static and operating pressure at the meter, and talk about turf, beds, trees and how you actually use the yard.
2. Design and estimate. Zones, head types, valve locations, controller and sensor. In writing, free, with no trip charge.
3. Permit and plan. We pull the permit where the city requires one and prepare the sealed irrigation plan.
4. Install. Mainline, valves in boxes, laterals, heads set to grade, backflow assembly, sensor and controller wired in.
5. Test, tune and hand over. Every zone run and adjusted, arcs set, schedule programmed for the season, backflow tested, then the walk-through, the plan, the checklist and the warranty.

Frequently asked questions

Related pages

• All irrigation and outdoor services
• Sprinkler repair
• Yard drainage and French drains
• Landscape lighting
• Freeze damage and winterization
• Cities we serve